Oahu


On February 28, 1779 the HMS Discovery, captained by Charles Clerke, anchored in Waimea Bay, marking the first time a European had stepped foot on Oahu. Captain Clerke had assumed command of the Discovery after famed English explorer James Cooke met his brutal end on the Big Island. Aside from the windmills and the famous church in the background, it’s easy to assume that the Waimea Bay that we’ve all come to know and love hasn’t changed dramatically since Captain Clerke first made landfall. In their journals, the English crew noted that Waimea was "well cultivated and full of villages and the face of the country is uncommonly beautiful and picturesque."

PIPELINE:

When you talk North Shore Oahu the first thing that comes to mind is of course Pipeline and for good reason, when its on is there a better (or more crowed) spot?

Jamie Obrien dropping in with the GoPro for evidence.

local charger Moana Jones making it look too easy.

dropping in to the right at pipe brings you to back door and across the channel, Off the Wall....not everyone makes it.

February thru May brought some great swells, the hardworking ever present Hawaii lifeguards on the spot every time!

"And suddenly, out there where a big smoker lifts skyward, rising like a sea-god from out of the welter of spume and churning white, on the giddy, toppling, overhanging and downfalling, precarious crest appears the dark head of a man. Swiftly he rises through the rushing white. His black shoulders, his chest, his loins, his limbs—all is abruptly projected on one’s vision. Where but the moment before was only the wide desolation and invincible roar, is now a man, erect, full-statured, not struggling frantically in that wild movement,

not buried and crushed and buffeted by those mighty monsters, but standing above them all, calm and superb" Jack London

COVID-19 brought some strange times to Oahu, I never thought I would ever see some of these places deserted.

Waimea bay is pretty timeless and is a treat to see when it breaks.

Pu'u Mahuka Heiau, and the display at Turtle bay resort were some great stops during my stay. My buddy and guard dog Lucy making sure everything is right in the neighborhood.

Makana Pang throwin down at Rockies for RVCA.

Honolua Blomfield two time World Longboard Champion bringing so much style and grace to Pupukea, Ehukai and any other place she happens to be.

The action underwater is such a different world and a whole different vibe, its one of the things that continually brings me back to water every time.

Sunset beach has been world famous for so long, the few times it did break had such a good crowd of locals and pros that have it wired, of course the broken board is a scene played across almost every surf break along the North Shore, its just one price among many to be payed to surf here.

Raquel Heckert, Brazils Big wave surfer paddles out at Velzyland with the rest of the Vland local crew getting some great waves, barrels and gorgeous sunsets.

While most of my time in Oahu was spent on the North Shore there were a few days to travel in to Town and experience some of Waikiki. A bit of a different scene but the look of joy on the faces of beginners, vets, pros, locals the old and the young in one place and everyone sharing the same spirit and energy was such great experience. Unfortunately my trip and other stops on my project have been put on hold at the moment but I am so grateful for the people I was able to meet and the experiences and history of Oahu I hope to be back soon. Aloha!

"THAT is what it is, a royal sport for the natural kings of earth. The grass grows right down to the water at Waikiki Beach, and within fifty feet of the everlasting sea. The trees also grow down to the salty edge of things, and one sits in their shade and looks seaward at a majestic surf thundering in on the beach to one’s very feet"

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